Marrakesh, the rose city, favourite of the hippies in the late 60s and early 70s, is one of the musts of a visit to Morocco. If you've been in Morocco for a few days already, you may be bored with the ubiquitous tagine. There's no better place to indulge in the exotic atmosphere of this entrancing city, and to sample most of what moroccan cooking has to offer, than Djemaa el Fnaa.
During the day, this enormous square, edged by the souk and the impressive Kotoubia Mosque, is filled with stands selling nuts, fruit and fresh orange juice. There are also snake charmers and "tooth pullers" - lots of colour and photo ops. But at night, the food stalls are set up and the square is transformed into a huge open-air restaurant, full of the smell of charcoal grills, roasting meat and exotic spices. Walk around until you find a stand that pleases your eye (or better, your nose). Place your order and then take your seat alongside locals and tourists, at a low bench bordering the food stand, to watch your meal being prepared. The grilled lamb chops are fantastic, but if you are sentimental about sheep, you should probably avoid walking through the market before your dinner, as you are likely to see the head of the sheep whose chops you are about to enjoy, waiting on the butcher's slab. A moroccan salad (tomatoes, cucumber, onions, mint) is a simple, but intensely flavourful side dish. Why not follow this with some sweet moroccan pastries and coffee, or some mint tea, before you head back to your riaad, getting lost in the winding alleys on the way.
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