If you are ever here, eat there #11: New York

Of course it's a cliché to call the Big Apple one of the great cities of the world, but there's no getting away from it. The ultra-modern skyscrapers, elegant brownstones and Art Deco stunners (including my favourite, the Chrysler Building, with its gargoyles modeled after Chrysler hood ornaments) give New York a strange and compelling beauty. Quirky touches like the rocket-shaped water towers atop most buildings add to the unique character of this unmistakeable skyline. It's not just about the architecture, though. Manhattan's neighbourhoods, from the posh and cultured Upper East Side, with its museums and expensive, doorman-serviced apartment buildings, to the touts and bright lights of Times Square and the Theatre District, to the more bohemian charm of Greenwich Village, with its students and coffee shops, are as good for people-watching as they are for landmark-spotting. 

The Lower East side, which was home to millions of immigrants in the early part of the 20th centutry, doesn't have as much to offer to sight-seers as many of the other parts of Manhattan, but Katz's Deli is a notable exception. Established by Russian immigrants in 1888, this kosher-style restaurant has been at the warm heart of the neighbourhood for over a hundred years. Always packed, Katz's can be a little intimidating when you first walk in. A team strategy works well here: Elbow your way firmly to a table as soon as you see someone getting up to leave (these are New Yorkers - don't be shy), while your lunch partner stands in line at the counter to place an order with one of the "cutters".

While you wait, take in the buzz of the regulars and tourists around you, and check out the photos which hide all trace of the walls. You might spot the one of the cast from When Harry Met Sally (yes, Meg Ryan's famously exciting lunch was eaten here).



Of course, what you are really here for is the food. You can't go wrong with a Reuben (corned beef with swiss cheese, sauerkraut and Russian dressing on rye bread ), Pastrami on rye or a Knoblewurst (garlic sausage), served with thick-cut fries and pickles. All are absolutely mouthwatering, with tender savoury meat and perfectly balanced complementary salty, sweet and sour flavours. Portions are generous. There's a pretty extensive menu, but  honestly, we enjoyed the Reuben and the sausage so much on our first visit to Katz's that we opted to have it again on our next visit to New York, a few years later.

Katz's Deli is at 205 East Houston Street (corner of Ludlow St) on the Lower East Side.

By Subway, you can take the F to Second Avenue Station or the F, M, J or Z to Delancey /Essex St.

Tel: (212) 254 2246.