We were about to give up on Mexican food for good after only a week. After a few days in Mexico City and then moving on to Puebla, we had found the cities fascinating, with their mix of ancient monuments, colonial architecture and modernity. But the steady diet of tortillas (in tacos, in quesadillas, in burritos) was getting a tad boring.
Oaxaca was the next stop, a four hour bus ride from Puebla. We wandered through the lovely streets of Oaxaca, lined with brightly coloured colonial houses on gently sloping hills, with volcanoes just visible in the distance, just soaking up the atmosphere. The day after arriving, we took a trip to Mitla (colonial and Zapotec ruins), stopping at a few villages along the way. This was a little underwhelming (especially after having seen the great pyramids of Teotihuacan near Mexico City), but the day was rescued by ending on Monte Alban, a Zapotec hilltop fortress, complete with pyramids, ball courts, temples and Los Danzantes (carvings that were assumed to be dancers, when first found by archeologists, but which are now thought to be prisoners of war). After that, things got even better, with dinner at the stunning Los Danzantes.
The first thing that struck us as we walked into the high-walled courtyard was the serenity of the setting. Lighting is low, tables are set well apart from each other and a water feature adds to the overall feeling of tranquility - a marked contrast with the bustling street. The architecture is modern, geometric and funky, but feels almost Asian in the way that built and natural elements combine. The soundtrack is Buddhabar/Gotan Project or something like that - mellow and a perfect fit for the cool environment.
The menu is Mexican fusion / Modern Mexican and although the Mexican influence is clear, the treatment and presentation is fresh, innovative and delicious. We tried Tacos de Pato (duck tacos) to start - pretty good - and then moved onto the highlight, a Tlayuda con Camarones (tortilla stuffed with prawns and cheese and baked) and Camarones Empanizados. The description on the menu - prawns in coconut and a sweet and sour sauce - does not come close to doing this dish justice. The prawns were large, firm and sweet-fleshed, deep fried delicately in a crust of coconut and served in a fruity sauce. The balance of flavours is so good that even people who don't usually like sweet and sour sauce are knocked out). We also tried a tuna steak - fresh, well-prepared and beautifully presented. We didn't make it as far as dessert, but items such as the corn pie with chilli jam and mezcal sound interesting. Service was good and although this is probably one of the pricier restaurants in Oaxaca, it's great value.
Los Danzantes is at Macedonio Alcala No. 403-4, Oaxaca, but if you don't get to Oaxaca, they also have a branch on the main square in Coyoacan, Mexico City.
Oaxaca was the next stop, a four hour bus ride from Puebla. We wandered through the lovely streets of Oaxaca, lined with brightly coloured colonial houses on gently sloping hills, with volcanoes just visible in the distance, just soaking up the atmosphere. The day after arriving, we took a trip to Mitla (colonial and Zapotec ruins), stopping at a few villages along the way. This was a little underwhelming (especially after having seen the great pyramids of Teotihuacan near Mexico City), but the day was rescued by ending on Monte Alban, a Zapotec hilltop fortress, complete with pyramids, ball courts, temples and Los Danzantes (carvings that were assumed to be dancers, when first found by archeologists, but which are now thought to be prisoners of war). After that, things got even better, with dinner at the stunning Los Danzantes.
The first thing that struck us as we walked into the high-walled courtyard was the serenity of the setting. Lighting is low, tables are set well apart from each other and a water feature adds to the overall feeling of tranquility - a marked contrast with the bustling street. The architecture is modern, geometric and funky, but feels almost Asian in the way that built and natural elements combine. The soundtrack is Buddhabar/Gotan Project or something like that - mellow and a perfect fit for the cool environment.
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