If you are ever here, eat there #25: Beijing (again)

Beijing is a city of contrasts and of balance. The Forbidden City, with all its imperial elegance, faces Tienanmen Square, massive symbol of modern Chinese power. Between the city's modern grey buildings (and blocky, soviet-era horrors for the government buildings), you find the Palace of Peace and Harmony Lama Temple, the Bell Tower or the Temple of Heaven. And despite the crowded shopping malls, where everybody is chasing after the same international brands and queuing for the same Starbucks, you can still see the quieter, more human side of the city in the parks, where thousands gather daily to perform Tai Chi, ballroom dancing, music, calligraphy or to give their pet birds a change of scene.

The hutongs (alleyways that lead to traditional homes, built around courtyards) are disappearing fast. Urbanisation and the construction of massive apartment towers and office blocks continue at a staggering pace and the hutongs have steadily been bulldozed to make way. It seems that a few areas may be left, with some kind of museum status, but the Beijing of the 20th century is no more.

Tucked away in a hutong, near the courtyard homes of many of China's past and present leaders, is the Red Capital Club. You know you've arrived when you see a classic car with a red flag, alleged to have been the vehicle of Madame Mao. Step over the wooden threshold into the courtyard to find a restaurant that celebrates the 1950's with a beguiling combination of classic and kitsch (more kitsch, than classic really, which is what makes it fun). They claim that the furnishings were used by the central government in the 1950's and a poem by Chairman Mao adorns one wall.

I went as part of a large group (not generally my style, but I was at a conference and it was the thing to do). The setting - in a number of inter-leading rooms facing the courtyard - is charming and makes a nice change from the more usual canteen-like layout of Chinese eating places. The Club serves Zhongnanhai Cuisine - the name of the secretive compound of China's top leadership. Each meal is a state banquet in style and each dish is presented with a vegetable carved to represent a former leader. You need to use your imagination to see the resemblance sometimes, but that's not really the point. Being in a group was an advantage in this case, as all the dishes were served communally - Asian style - and we got to sample about a dozen different items (and hear the story behind each one). The Chairman's Favourite (roasted pork) and the Flaming Dragon (Imperial Mandarin Fish) were particularly good. You will want to try some of the dishes for the names alone ("Courtesan's Midnight Delight" - sweet and sour tofu, "Behind the Silken Fan" - asparagus, and "Jade Rabbits Making Love to the Moon" - prawn on pumpkin, accompanied by quail eggs).


The Red Capital Club is also a small hotel with beautiful individually decorated rooms - worth a look around if you are not staying there.

The Red Capital Club is open only in the evenings and is located at Dongsi Jiutiao, Beijing.