If you are ever here, eat there #19: Bordeaux

It's more than 10 years since I was in Bordeaux. Situated on the banks of the Garonne and occupying an important spot on ancient trade routes, Bordeaux's history goes back to a celtic settlement in 300 BC. You can still see traces of its past as Roman capital of Aquitaine, seat of the Merovingians, home of Eleanor of Aquitaine (who married Henry II, during France's long reign over England) and more.

As usual we walked the city flat, also following some less touristy paths to retrace Christian's childhood steps in his old home town. Between the nostalgic trips down memory-lane and the strolls along the Rue Sainte-Catherine (a long and lively pedestrianised shopping street), we took in the  impressive squares, beautiful churches and other stately 18th century buildings that gave Baron Haussmann his inspiration for the rebuilding of Paris. There's plenty to see outside the city too, and we made day trips to explore the famous winelands and coast around Bordeaux, discovering wonderful fresh oysters at a port-side restaurant (little more than a shed, really). I don't remember the name of that little place, so this blog is about another restaurant that has really stayed with me: L'Entrecôte. The photos are from the restaurant's website (we didn't think to snap the food at the time), but they give a good idea.


The concept is a simple one and has by now been copied many times: A restaurant that serves steak and chips. That's (just about) it. But not just any steak and chips. We went at lunchtime and the place was busy (I don't think it really matters when you go, this place is always busy). Bistro-style tables are set with smart yellow table cloths and heavy cutlery, but it's cosy and informal, rather than stuffy or pretentious. The only choices to make are what to drink and how well-done you would like your entrecôte (Literally translated, ite means "between the ribs" and it's a premium cut of beef, originally taken from between the 11th and 13th ribs. The closest cut we have to this in SA is the ribeye). We were served our starters of deliciously-dressed fresh salad leaves and walnuts almost immediately. Our mouths were already watering at the sight and smell of the beef being served all around us. The tender and intensely flavourful entrecôtes were served just as ordered: rare. I can't guarantee what you would receive if you ordered "well done" but you would deserve a disapproving look from the waiter at the very least. The meat was covered in the wonderful secret sauce of the house (not quite sure, but we reckon that it includes butter, garlic, wholegrain mustard, parsley, salt and pepper).


On the side came a mountain of crispy chips (eat as much as you like), which work beautifully to dip into the last of the sauce. Mmmm.





As usual, we didn't get as far as dessert, but there are a few options, including profiteroles, which looked delicious.

L'Entrecôte has sister restaurants in Toulouse, Nantes and Montpellier. There is also a L'Entrecôte in Paris, although not part of the same chain. Debate rages about where the original L'Entrecôte can be found (a bit like the Butcher's Grill vs the Famous Butcher's Grill at home), but who cares, as long as the food is this good.

You can find the Bordeaux branch at  4 Cours du 30 Juillet 33000 Bordeaux, tel: 05 56 81 76  10.

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