You won't find many Eastern European restaurants in this blog. Beautiful and fascinating as countries like the Czech Republic and Poland are, they have always struck me as being kinder to beer drinkers than to food lovers. It's next to impossible to find fresh vegetables or meat that is not cooked to death. On the other hand, part of the delight of travel is trying foods that you would not normally eat and if you're lucky, dining in an atmosphere that is the very essence of the place: its history, culture, music, people and of course, its flavours.
One of the most intriguing quarters in Krakow is Kazimierz, home of a significant Jewish community from the 14th century until the Second World War. The synagogues and prayer houses remain, although the population was decimated in the holocaust. Steven Spielberg filmed Schindler's List here, and when he yelled "cut" and headed for dinner, it was to the Alef that he went.
Decorated in 1930s style, with lacy tablecloths, rich oriental carpets and tiffany-style lamps, it felt a little like walking into the dining room of an elderly great aunt: charming and distinctly old-fashioned. As we were about to order, a Klezmer band arrived to provide the evening's entertainment (this clip is actually of a band at neighbouring restaurant Ariel, but gives a very good idea of the sort of thing). We actually bought their CD as a souvenir, which says quite a lot about the how seduced we were by the spirit of the place.
The menu features traditional Eastern European Jewish dishes, with a strong emphasis on beetroot soup (in many variations), fish (herring, trout, salmon, carp and of course gefilte fish) and goose. The goose liver with raisins and almonds was delicious - perfectly cooked, rich and intensely flavourful. The service and meal were good, but the lasting memory is of the whole experience - decor, music, food and traditions. Unforgettable.
The Alef is at Sw. Agnieszki 5, 31-071 Krakow, tel +48 12 424 31 31.
One of the most intriguing quarters in Krakow is Kazimierz, home of a significant Jewish community from the 14th century until the Second World War. The synagogues and prayer houses remain, although the population was decimated in the holocaust. Steven Spielberg filmed Schindler's List here, and when he yelled "cut" and headed for dinner, it was to the Alef that he went.
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| Alef Dining Room (Hotel Alef) |
The menu features traditional Eastern European Jewish dishes, with a strong emphasis on beetroot soup (in many variations), fish (herring, trout, salmon, carp and of course gefilte fish) and goose. The goose liver with raisins and almonds was delicious - perfectly cooked, rich and intensely flavourful. The service and meal were good, but the lasting memory is of the whole experience - decor, music, food and traditions. Unforgettable.
The Alef is at Sw. Agnieszki 5, 31-071 Krakow, tel +48 12 424 31 31.
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